I have finished restoring (mostly) a 1957 Williams Baseball game. The
bat is 120 VAC. In rebuilding the switch, I noticed that there is but a small insulator between the metal handle and the 120 VAC.
Is there anyway to make this safer? I do not want to electrocute a
person should that insulator fail.
* Modify for 3 prong cord and run a ground wire? There is a (not Jones) plug to the top panel. Would have to wire a ground some way that could
not fail.
* Install an internal GFCI? Will that protect someone from electrocution? Or just turn off after the fact? Work with two prong electrical and no ground?
* Hook up some sort of low V relay? Contacts in that relay would have
to handle the current / arcing of the bat coil.
Or just figure what was good enough for 1957 is good for 2020?
https://www.amazon.com/Webber-WBGF18-3W-AUTO-RESET-120VAC-Attachable/dp/B00WZN9W6I/
There's some good information here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide#post-1945124
/Mark
On 8/10/20 1:30 PM, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
I have finished restoring (mostly) a 1957 Williams Baseball game. The
bat is 120 VAC. In rebuilding the switch, I noticed that there is but
a small insulator between the metal handle and the 120 VAC.
Is there anyway to make this safer? I do not want to electrocute a
person should that insulator fail.
* Modify for 3 prong cord and run a ground wire? There is a (not
Jones) plug to the top panel. Would have to wire a ground some way
that could not fail.
* Install an internal GFCI? Will that protect someone from
electrocution? Or just turn off after the fact? Work with two prong
electrical and no ground?
* Hook up some sort of low V relay? Contacts in that relay would have
to handle the current / arcing of the bat coil.
Or just figure what was good enough for 1957 is good for 2020?
https://www.amazon.com/Webber-WBGF18-3W-AUTO-RESET-120VAC-Attachable/dp/B00WZN9W6I/
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