From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball
On 11/6/21 10:26 PM, Doug Helfenberger wrote:
On Saturday, November 6, 2021 at 4:52:07 PM UTC-4, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
On 11/6/21 4:07 PM, Doug Helfenberger wrote:
I have a solid state Mati Hari which the right side bank of targets will not reset.
I can push the targets up manually and play ( functioning normally) but when they are all down they will not reset, not even at the beginning of a new game. Any ideas?
I would go into the service menu (see the manual) and test the
solenoids. The machine will activate each solenoid, one at a time.
One of the solenoids will be the one for those drop targets.
If the solenoid does not activate, check to insure that the solenoid
voltage is getting to the coil (DC, connect the other side to ground).
Both tabs on the coil must read the solenoid voltage. Check the wiring, too. >>
If getting DC to the coil, it could be the driver transistor on the
Solenoid / Voltage Regulator Board. See the manual to identify which
transistor it is. You can BRIEFLY touch the tab to ground with the game
started, using a heavy duty clip lead. That should activate that
solenoid. If it does, and the solenoid does not work, test that
transistor. Replace with a TIP102. If grounding the tab does not
activate the solenoid, you have a wiring issue or the coil is bad, or it
is not getting voltage. Check the diode on the coil. If it is broken
or defective, that will blow out the transistor.
If that solenoid fires during the solenoid test, then go into that
switch test in the service menu. Reset the drop targets up, manually.
Then drop down one and see if that drop target registers. You will need
to remove the pinball from the game. Repeat for each drop target,
resetting the previous drop target.
I suspect it is the solenoid driver transistor (or broken wire or bad
coil) because even if the switches are bad on the drop targets, the
solenoid should reset on start up.
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First, thank you for your good advice, you obviously know what you are talking about.
I ran the system check and the solenoid again did not fire. I also ran the next test for the switches. It showed that switches 17, 18 and 20 were open/ The drop target bank that is not working is 4 targets 17,18,19,and 20. Only one - 19 did not come back as bad?? I wonder if this is the problem but I bet not.
I have a feeling it is the power transistor for this solenoid. Do you know how to check a transistor?
I am about to check voltage across the solenoid. Should they both show power all the time or just when the switch is closed?
Again Thank You
The Bally switch test is terrible. It will only display one switch,
even if several are closed.
When going into the switch test, it is crucial that no switches show as closed. If another switch is closed (such as a ball in the ball trough,
or another switch such as a drop target in the other bank), then your
switch test will not work. I am hoping that if you go back and perform
this switch test again, you may find that they all work.
Did all of the other solenoids fire during the solenoid test? At the
right time?
Since this solenoid didn't fire during the solenoid test, there is
definitely an issue here, regardless of how the switches test.
Since you are looking at switches 17 - 20, I now know that you are
looking at the right hand set of drop targets. Note that in many cases,
there is one wire on this switch matrix that may go from drop target to
drop target. Looking at the schematic, all the drop targets have that
same one wire going to them. It is possible that this wire is broken at
some spot. See the 'Wiring Diagram' in your schematics.
[There is also a double switch in parallel, in another column labelled
as 'Drop Targets'. I am not sure what this is.]
When the game is turned on, there should be voltage on both sides of the
coil. You can connect your voltmeter to that wire braid that goes
around the backbox and cabinet. It is ground. Be sure that your meter
is set to DC. The value should be about 43 V DC, but can vary a bit and
not be an issue.
I think we are talking about the 'Rt. Drop Target Reset'. Also in your schematics are a listing of the plugs going to the circuit board. This
is labeled on J5, pin 8, of the Voltage Regulator / Solenoid Driver board.
Note: performing this solenoid test by shorting the transistor can
expose you to some nasty high voltage. Do not perform this test unless
you are qualified to. If uncomfortable, find someone to help you.
On the schematic for the Voltage Regulator / Solenoid Driver board, J5 -
8 goes to Q16. When performing the following test, you need to be very careful: Take a good heavy duty clip lead. Connect it to that ground
braid at the bottom of the backbox near this board. Make sure the game
is on and running. STAY AWAY FROM THE HIGH VOLTAGE - this runs the
displays and is around 180 V or so. Nasty stuff. It is also located at
the top / left of this board. Q16 is located at the bottom.
BRIEFLY touch the metal tab on Q16. You will get a spark. The solenoid should fire. If it does, then it is likely to be a bad Q16 (or one of
the ICs that feed this transistor).
If solenoid does not fire, try Q11 (right sling shot) or Q12 (left drop
target reset). Those should fire.
If those work, then you are performing this test correctly.
If Q11 does not fire the solenoid, then your issue could be:
*Coil not getting the voltage.
*Coil is bad (check resistance with the power off compared to other drop target coil).
*Thinner wire on that coil, which controls that coil, is broken
somewhere - usually at the coil or the plug at the circuit board.
*Plug or header pin bad. These IDC plugs are terrible and those wires
come loose or break. Header pins solder cracks.
*Defect on the board or other bad solder joint.
*Something else I forgot to mention.
I am a terrible proofreader......
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
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