From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

On Thursday, March 23, 2017 at 11:06:21 AM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:

On 2017/03/21 1:26 PM, 69yankey@gmail.com wrote:

Lethal Weapon 3 no power at coils 1 to 7 and neither coils or flashers work in diagnostic mode. Exchanged PPB board with another machine thinking it was the L/R relay, but still no change. I believe I have checked all the fuses and transistors and they appear to test OK. Also, coil 8 fires the knocker on both 8L and 8R test. 8R should be for a Flasher.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Coils have power (on most pinball games) as soon as the game is turned
on - unless there is an interlock switch at the coin door that will
remove power when the coin door is open. So do voltage tests with the playfield up and the coin door closed.

Use your voltmeter to probe suspect coils relative to the ground
strap/braid running around the inside of the cabinet. Coils should show their B+ voltage - between 24 and 70VDC depending on the game. If the coil(s) show zero volts relative to ground then track the Solenoid Power
Bus back to the fuse(s) and check at the fuse clips (both sides) to see
if the problem is a faulty clip or perhaps an open fuse (even if it
looks good).

I hope the above tests will give you useful results. Please report back
your findings.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John
Above is a post that I did more than three years ago and never saw. For the past two days, since I saw my old post, it has been driving me nuts as to what happened and why I never saw the messages or responded. We go to Florida for the winter and at the end of February 2017, we received a call that my wife's father had a heart issue so we came back to PA immediately. We had matters we needed to take care of, so we went back to Florida sometime in late March and I believe it must have been right after I posted that issue.
I cannot believe it is 3 years that this machine is not working, but time can fly by. I just
I am not sure if you are still on the group, but I wanted to let you know that I was sorry I never responded. If you are still active and would be willing to help me resolve this issue, let me know and I will update you where things stand
Lonnie
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From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

On 2020/04/21 3:28 p.m., 69yankey@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, March 23, 2017 at 11:06:21 AM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:

On 2017/03/21 1:26 PM, 69yankey@gmail.com wrote:

Lethal Weapon 3 no power at coils 1 to 7 and neither coils or flashers work in diagnostic mode. Exchanged PPB board with another machine thinking it was the L/R relay, but still no change. I believe I have checked all the fuses and transistors and they appear to test OK. Also, coil 8 fires the knocker on both 8L and 8R test. 8R should be for a Flasher.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Coils have power (on most pinball games) as soon as the game is turned
on - unless there is an interlock switch at the coin door that will
remove power when the coin door is open. So do voltage tests with the
playfield up and the coin door closed.

Use your voltmeter to probe suspect coils relative to the ground
strap/braid running around the inside of the cabinet. Coils should show
their B+ voltage - between 24 and 70VDC depending on the game. If the
coil(s) show zero volts relative to ground then track the Solenoid Power
Bus back to the fuse(s) and check at the fuse clips (both sides) to see
if the problem is a faulty clip or perhaps an open fuse (even if it
looks good).

I hope the above tests will give you useful results. Please report back
your findings.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John

Above is a post that I did more than three years ago and never saw. For the past two days, since I saw my old post, it has been driving me nuts as to what happened and why I never saw the messages or responded. We go to Florida for the winter and at the end of February 2017, we received a call that my wife's father had a heart issue so we came back to PA immediately. We had matters we needed to take care of, so we went back to Florida sometime in late March and I believe it must have been right after I posted that issue.

I cannot believe it is 3 years that this machine is not working, but time can fly by. I just

I am not sure if you are still on the group, but I wanted to let you know that I was sorry I never responded. If you are still active and would be willing to help me resolve this issue, let me know and I will update you where things stand

Lonnie

I've been waiting, patiently, for your response! (ducking). My advice is
still valid.

We subsequently had to move shortly after that correspondence, I'll
blame you and not my landlord!

John ;-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
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From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

John


Let me give you an update of where I am at. When I first posted this, I swapped out the PPB board from another machine an that did nothing. I also grounded the tap on Q29, which was to activate my L/R relay, but it did not.

Today I did testing, but will tell you what I did last, since I believe that is related to my problem.

The final thing I did was put a volt meter in both the pin and socket of J6 1&2, the brown wire 32V and J6 pins 3 & 4 orange wire. I expected to see voltage at the pin, but did not. Any ideas


I tested continuity on connector J6 pin 2 brown wire to all the coils, and I had continuity on all of them. I then did that with the orange wire J6 pins 3&4 to all the flashers and again had continuity.

I proceeded then to do all the pins on J2 back to each coil and again I had continuity.

Checked fuse F6 and the fuse is OK and the fuse holder seems to have good tension on the fuse.

I checked for power at my coils,the brown wire and ground and had no power to none of the coils 1 to 7, which are controlled by the L/R Relay, I did have power at other coils.

Lonnie






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From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

On 2020/04/22 3:51 p.m., 69yankey@gmail.com wrote:

John

Let me give you an update of where I am at. When I first posted this, I swapped out the PPB board from another machine an that did nothing. I also grounded the tap on Q29, which was to activate my L/R relay, but it did not.

Today I did testing, but will tell you what I did last, since I believe that is related to my problem.

The final thing I did was put a volt meter in both the pin and socket of J6 1&2, the brown wire 32V and J6 pins 3 & 4 orange wire. I expected to see voltage at the pin, but did not. Any ideas

I tested continuity on connector J6 pin 2 brown wire to all the coils, and I had continuity on all of them. I then did that with the orange wire J6 pins 3&4 to all the flashers and again had continuity.

I proceeded then to do all the pins on J2 back to each coil and again I had continuity.

Checked fuse F6 and the fuse is OK and the fuse holder seems to have good tension on the fuse.

I checked for power at my coils,the brown wire and ground and had no power to none of the coils 1 to 7, which are controlled by the L/R Relay, I did have power at other coils.

Lonnie

Lonnie,

You are NOT doing the tests I recommend to see if you have power at the
coils. Until you do that you are just guessing as to what is going on here.

Re-read my previous post and please follow the instructions there.

I can't help you if you don't follow my instructions.

John :-#(#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
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From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

On Wednesday, April 22, 2020 at 8:45:39 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:

On 2020/04/22 3:51 p.m., 69yankey@gmail.com wrote:

John

Let me give you an update of where I am at. When I first posted this, I swapped out the PPB board from another machine an that did nothing. I also grounded the tap on Q29, which was to activate my L/R relay, but it did not.

Today I did testing, but will tell you what I did last, since I believe that is related to my problem.

The final thing I did was put a volt meter in both the pin and socket of J6 1&2, the brown wire 32V and J6 pins 3 & 4 orange wire. I expected to see voltage at the pin, but did not. Any ideas

I tested continuity on connector J6 pin 2 brown wire to all the coils, and I had continuity on all of them. I then did that with the orange wire J6 pins 3&4 to all the flashers and again had continuity.

I proceeded then to do all the pins on J2 back to each coil and again I had continuity.

Checked fuse F6 and the fuse is OK and the fuse holder seems to have good tension on the fuse.

I checked for power at my coils,the brown wire and ground and had no power to none of the coils 1 to 7, which are controlled by the L/R Relay, I did have power at other coils.

Lonnie

Lonnie,

You are NOT doing the tests I recommend to see if you have power at the coils. Until you do that you are just guessing as to what is going on here.

Re-read my previous post and please follow the instructions there.

I can't help you if you don't follow my instructions.

John :-#(#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John
I believe I followed your instructions if what you are referring is what I copied below in " ". My email stated that I tested all coils and had NO POWER at any of the coils controlled by the L/R. Other coils did have power I checked all fuses, taking them out of the socket and thoroughly checked the clips on F6, which was the fuse someone said controls the L/R relay.
"Use your voltmeter to probe suspect coils relative to the ground
strap/braid running around the inside of the cabinet. Coils should show
their B+ voltage - between 24 and 70VDC depending on the game. If the
coil(s) show zero volts relative to ground then track the Solenoid Power
Bus back to the fuse(s) and check at the fuse clips (both sides) to see
if the problem is a faulty clip or perhaps an open fuse (even if it
looks good)"
Sorry if I missed something else you said, I surely do not want to waste your time, and I appreciate your help, but I do believe I did what to told me to.
Lonnie
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From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

John:
I just got my machine fixed. Part of my email last night mentioned that I had no power on the PPB board connector J6 pins 1 thru 4. I checked all the fuses, but was convince I should have 32V on those pins. I just received a power supply Monday for another DE machine that has not been working in more than a decade. I decided to change the Power Supply and that resolved my problem.
I will now go back and see if I can figure what where the 32V was coming from on the power supply and see if I can repair that board.
Thanks for your help
Lonnie
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From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

On 2020/04/23 2:26 p.m., 69yankey@gmail.com wrote:

John:

I just got my machine fixed. Part of my email last night mentioned that I had no power on the PPB board connector J6 pins 1 thru 4. I checked all the fuses, but was convince I should have 32V on those pins. I just received a power supply Monday for another DE machine that has not been working in more than a decade. I decided to change the Power Supply and that resolved my problem.

I will now go back and see if I can figure what where the 32V was coming from on the power supply and see if I can repair that board.

Thanks for your help

Lonnie

Hi Lonnie,

Great! I was going to pull out my schematics and do some tracing when I
had some free time today. Yes, I suspected the 32V was the problem, now
you just have to trace it backwards to find the issue!

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
--- Synchronet 3.17c-Win32 NewsLink 1.112

From Newsgroup: rec.games.pinball

I'll tell ya Lonnie - those DE power supply boards are the root of almost every problem I encounter - to the point - I just don't see why anyone keeps/repairs them - I got the state where I replace them with an Xpin PS and be done - not often a well received message from purists - but the X-Pin is simply a better designed board and once installed - all of my oddball and more direct problems went away....
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