On Monday, March 4, 2013 7:55:33 AM UTC-6, Richiep wrote:
Guys, finally starting to dig into my latest project, a 1958 Gottlieb Roto Pool.
To date, this is my oldest game/project. Up to now, all my games have been mid 60's to early 70's pins and was just wondering if there's any significant difference in the design of these older games from the 50's as compared to the games from the 60's and 70's, or are they pretty much the same?
Also, anyone know what the fuse values are for this game. Getting ready to place an order with PBR and will likely buy a schematic, but just wanted to get the right fuses in the game before I turn it on for ther first time to evaluate it.
My Roto Pool motor is running non stop after start up. Problem started with scoring stopped on 10Ks column though slingshots and pop up bumpers are operational. Where do I look for problem?Right now the main fuse near the transformer is a 20 amp and the three other fuses in the front of the game on the mech panel are a 15, 20 and 15...seem high to me. Thanks.The fuse values should be ink stamped right onto the bottom board, near the fuse holders. They usually are covered in dirt and grime, so hard to see, but if you clean that area off, you'll see them (might be faint). The three main ones are usually 10amp. The transformer one is usually a 5amp slo-blo. They ink-stamped the values onto the board instead of using the paper cards.
The late 50's ones are not too much different than a 60's style - still has steppers, coils, relays, and switches. The one new item might be the 100K stepper (the really big stepper unit in the backbox). And the bulb scoring of course.
The steppers are often seized up if the game's been sitting for a long time. If it wasn't running when acquired, might consider deferring a power up until after it's all been rebuilt/restored, so any other surprises have been addressed first.
On Monday, March 4, 2013 at 8:36:50 AM UTC-6, DirtFlipper wrote:
On Monday, March 4, 2013 7:55:33 AM UTC-6, Richiep wrote:My Roto Pool motor is running non stop after start up. Problem started with scoring stopped on 10Ks column though slingshots and pop up bumpers are operational. Where do I look for problem?
Guys, finally starting to dig into my latest project, a 1958 Gottlieb Roto Pool.The fuse values should be ink stamped right onto the bottom board, near the fuse holders. They usually are covered in dirt and grime, so hard to see, but if you clean that area off, you'll see them (might be faint). The three main ones are usually 10amp. The transformer one is usually a 5amp slo-blo. They ink-stamped the values onto the board instead of using the paper cards.
To date, this is my oldest game/project. Up to now, all my games have been mid 60's to early 70's pins and was just wondering if there's any significant difference in the design of these older games from the 50's as compared to the games from the 60's and 70's, or are they pretty much the same?
Also, anyone know what the fuse values are for this game. Getting ready to place an order with PBR and will likely buy a schematic, but just wanted to get the right fuses in the game before I turn it on for ther first time to evaluate it.
Right now the main fuse near the transformer is a 20 amp and the three other fuses in the front of the game on the mech panel are a 15, 20 and 15...seem high to me. Thanks.
The late 50's ones are not too much different than a 60's style - still has steppers, coils, relays, and switches. The one new item might be the 100K stepper (the really big stepper unit in the backbox). And the bulb scoring of course.
The steppers are often seized up if the game's been sitting for a long time. If it wasn't running when acquired, might consider deferring a power up until after it's all been rebuilt/restored, so any other surprises have been addressed first.
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