That's says it all right there.
On Monday, December 21, 2020 at 6:26:38 PM UTC-6, JS Terry wrote:Update and correction. There was NOT anything wrong with the Ni-Wumpf board that I used. It was user error. I feel pretty dumb once you hear what the error was. I've been restoring games for 16 years and I work as a computer programmer, so the mistake I made was really dumb. It was like the person who calls into tech support and is told to turn their computer off and on and it fixes the problem or the grandma who call tech support once a week because she can't remember how to get solitaire to play on her computer.
Just installed all new boards in a Gottlieb Countdown (Rottendog power supply, Ni-Wumph MPU, and rottendog driver). On power up everything looked good. I selected Countdown as the game. In diagnostics, all switches work/test correctly, displays test correctly, all lights work, solenoids work except #8 (Red Target Bank Reset). However, if I manually ground the transistor for the Red Bank reset the solenoid fires and the targets reset.
If I try to start a game, the games gives the initial tune, resets only one bank of targets. Flippers and pop bumper work. However, nothing else works. No displays, no switches, no controlled solenoids (so it won't feed ball to trough or if I put a ball in the upper saucer it doesn't work.)
Sort of stuck as to why everything works in diagnostics (except solenoid #8) but then nothing works when starting a game.
Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.
One other note, I had a spare original System 1 board with a Countdown ROM. Not sure if it was completely working. However, I did install it back in the game and I was able to start a new game with everything working except two of the target bank solenoids were stuck on.
Also, I have re-pinned all the connectors.
JohnieFigured out the issue. It was actually two different things. First, tried the new Ni-Wumpf with an old original driver board and it had the same symptoms, worked fine in diagnostics except solenoid #8. Then when I started a game it would play the start up tune, reset the green targets but nothing else, no displays, switches, etc. would work. I had a old system 1 CPU and a Countdown ROM so I used it with the original driver board and the game worked except solenoid #8. So, the issue has to be in the new Ni-Wumpf. In fairness to Ni-Wumpf I've used their boards successfully in the past. This particular board, while never having used it, I had in storage for over a year. It's possible I did something to mess it up so I don't want to throw any "shade" their way.
As for solenoid #8, it ended up being the CPU to Driver connector. It was a brand new harness I bought from Docent Electronics so I assumed it was good. However, one of the pins had come out. It was the pin that sent the signal to solenoid #8 (A1J5-2). I pushed the pin back in and everything worked.
Long story short, it seems that I had two brand new pieces (Ni-Wumpf and the wiring harness) that had issues.
As a side note, you may be wondering why I was putting new boards in the game if I had old ones that worked. I was restoring this game for a lady and I wanted to make sure that it was as "bulletproof" as it could be. I figured new boards would be better than using the 40 year old boards I had even if they were still working. Plus my boards had been "hacked" a little over the years.
Hmmm.......ANYONE else?? What did you get for Xmas?Years ago I used to post a wish list on RGP. Stuff I could really use.
John
On 2020/12/12 12:47 p.m., John Dayhuff wrote:
On Thursday, December 10, 2020 at 7:24:19 PM UTC-5, Pocono Pins wrote:
On Thursday, December 10, 2020 at 6:24:42 PM UTC-5, pinnut wrote:
i am repairing a bally black jack EM for someone. its very low production before they move to SS, is it collectible like a charlies angels or other pre SS EM version?Mr Pinball price guide has 120 machines made, and values it at 1325.00
I picked one up last year on FB Marketplace for $1700 after it sat unsold for a month. Yes, an EM Bally Black Jack.Mr. Pinball would be way out of date. Very rare game and I'm guessing more in the $5K range minimum to a hard core collector, it would be like there holy grail. The EM Charlies Angels was to me for a long time.
John
I would agree with John, this is a rare and valuable game...$5,000 to $7,000USD selling price would not be out of line. Depending on condition
of course!
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
On 2020/12/19 2:36 p.m., cfhatprovidedotnet wrote:
I have the factory test fixture... would love to have the ROM.
but i don't have a manual. might be able to answer any questions
about it. direct email best cfh at provide.net
You have mail!
A few friends have send me enough info to sort this all out. It would be nice to track down the cabinet wiring diagrams - even though it is dead simple inside - for completion.
WARNING - my 6803 test fixture did not have the power transformer, nor
the metal panel which has the power switch connected to the line ground! Please do a safety check on your machine as I suspect this has been
repeated in other 6803 fixtures.
John :-#(#
On Friday, December 18, 2020 at 8:36:15 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:
Hi!
Not a common test fixture, and I have one that appears to have an
internal problem... I am looking for the manual (PDF is fine) and hoping >>> that this includes the schematics for the fixture.
I have working 6803 test fixture ROMs that I am happy to share if anyone >>> needs them...
Thanks,
John :-#)#
Seems like CC made a lot of dud games, but Mustang looks interesting. I can't find production numbers for Mustang but haven't seen it pop up often. Have a lead on one and wondering what is fair price for one with decent shape backglass and playfield.
SOLD for $799! BUT I actually do have 1 more gold CPR Addams playfield up for grabs, last one as I bought another one from HEP.
Same price with FREE shipping (if I like you)
$799.
Thanks,
JJ
On Saturday, August 24, 2019 at 6:39:05 PM UTC-7, psk445 wrote:
I could do $499 but then shipping and handling would be $300 :)
On Wednesday, August 21, 2019 at 6:29:23 PM UTC-7, lwin...@gmail.com wrote:
id do $499
On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 5:26:42 PM UTC-5, psk445 wrote:--- Synchronet 3.18a-Linux NewsLink 1.113
SOLD for $799! BUT I actually do have 1 more gold CPR Addams playfield up for grabs, last one as I bought another one from HEP.
Same price with FREE shipping (if I like you)
$799.
Thanks,
JJ
On Saturday, August 24, 2019 at 6:39:05 PM UTC-7, psk445 wrote:
I could do $499 but then shipping and handling would be $300 :)
On Wednesday, August 21, 2019 at 6:29:23 PM UTC-7, lwin...@gmail.com wrote:
Still have this? If so, what condition?id do $499
Sorry, I have no more TAF playfields for sale. It did take forever to sell it though!
On Saturday, February 6, 2021 at 2:40:23 PM UTC-8, Charlie Voissem wrote:
On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 5:26:42 PM UTC-5, psk445 wrote:
SOLD for $799! BUT I actually do have 1 more gold CPR Addams playfield up for grabs, last one as I bought another one from HEP.
Same price with FREE shipping (if I like you)
$799.
Thanks,
JJ
On Saturday, August 24, 2019 at 6:39:05 PM UTC-7, psk445 wrote:
I could do $499 but then shipping and handling would be $300 :)
On Wednesday, August 21, 2019 at 6:29:23 PM UTC-7, lwin...@gmail.com wrote:
Still have this? If so, what condition?id do $499
On Wednesday, July 3, 2019 at 4:09:25 PM UTC-4, pa...@re-sourceindustries.com wrote:--- Synchronet 3.18a-Linux NewsLink 1.113
On Saturday, March 24, 2018 at 1:34:24 AM UTC-4, ZNET wrote:
Collectors are always searching for parts. I have the orange/red, round bakelite control knobs with hardware and a few other parts for 1957 Williams Ten Strike (and its novelty counterpart, Ten Pins) in my parts bin, if anyone happens to need those. I also have an original Williams metal logo for the door of that game.
Can you send me pictures of what parts you have (if any still) paulk at rsicnc dot comI have 2 machines plus a cabinet. These are for parts or restoration. No heads. Located in Mass.
On Wednesday, July 3, 2019 at 4:09:25 PM UTC-4, pa...@re-sourceindustries.com wrote:Do you have a score motor for this game?
On Saturday, March 24, 2018 at 1:34:24 AM UTC-4, ZNET wrote:
Collectors are always searching for parts. I have the orange/red, round bakelite control knobs with hardware and a few other parts for 1957 Williams Ten Strike (and its novelty counterpart, Ten Pins) in my parts bin, if anyone happens to need those. I also have an original Williams metal logo for the door of that game.
Can you send me pictures of what parts you have (if any still) paulk at rsicnc dot comI have 2 machines plus a cabinet. These are for parts or restoration. No heads. Located in Mass.
On Tuesday, November 19, 2019 at 6:52:06 AM UTC-6, ken.ma...@gmail.com wrote:
On Wednesday, July 3, 2019 at 4:09:25 PM UTC-4, pa...@re-sourceindustries.com wrote:Do you have a score motor for this game?
On Saturday, March 24, 2018 at 1:34:24 AM UTC-4, ZNET wrote:I have 2 machines plus a cabinet. These are for parts or restoration. No heads. Located in Mass.
Collectors are always searching for parts. I have the orange/red, round bakelite control knobs with hardware and a few other parts for 1957 Williams Ten Strike (and its novelty counterpart, Ten Pins) in my parts bin, if anyone happens to need those. I also have an original Williams metal logo for the door of that game.
Can you send me pictures of what parts you have (if any still) paulk at rsicnc dot com
Hi
My kiss machine is doing the same thing
It turns on but doesnt start an the green li GB https is flashing. So what should I check next please help
On 4/30/2017 5:33 PM, bonsoo wrote:--- Synchronet 3.18c-Win32 NewsLink 1.113
For the record, problem was with the M/B switch in the bonus stepper unit. Easy adjustment on one side and very particular adjustment on the other. I figured if one was the good, it was given that the other was as well. Another basic lesson learned.
Thanks for walking me through schematics. Hopefully my next encounter won't be as daunting now.
Nice work. Glad to hear you got it working.
- Kerry
I know this thread is old, but it just helped me out with my Target Alpha. I've got another issue with my TA that is driving me nuts and has to do with the bonus stepper as well. What triggers the scan and more specifically, the speed at which it scans? Mine does count down, but on some pulses, it has a long pause between count and other times it counts much faster. It doesn't seem consistent.
On Sunday, April 30, 2017 at 9:32:19 PM UTC-4, Kerry Imming wrote:--
On 4/30/2017 5:33 PM, bonsoo wrote:
For the record, problem was with the M/B switch in the bonus stepper unit. Easy adjustment on one side and very particular adjustment on the other. I figured if one was the good, it was given that the other was as well. Another basic lesson learned.Nice work. Glad to hear you got it working.
Thanks for walking me through schematics. Hopefully my next encounter won't be as daunting now.
- Kerry
I know this thread is old, but it just helped me out with my Target Alpha. I've got another issue with my TA that is driving me nuts and has to do with the bonus stepper as well. What triggers the scan and more specifically, the speed at which it scans? Mine does count down, but on some pulses, it has a long pause between count and other times it counts much faster. It doesn't seem consistent.
On 4/10/21 5:43 AM, Bubba wrote:Thanks for the great explanation. There is a lot more going on in that circuit than I thought. I never get 5 pulses. I get one long pulse for most counts. Sometimes I get 3 quick pulses even without the double lit. I do get the correct scoring though, but it takes quite awhile to complete the scan. I'll have a look through this in the next few days. I just pulled the playfield for a deep cleaning.
I know this thread is old, but it just helped me out with my Target Alpha. I've got another issue with my TA that is driving me nuts and has to do with the bonus stepper as well. What triggers the scan and more specifically, the speed at which it scans? Mine does count down, but on some pulses, it has a long pause between count and other times it counts much faster. It doesn't seem consistent.Have a look at the circuit for the Add "Bonus" Unit solenoid on the schematic. Usually to count a bonus a normally open switch on the
G/Bonus Score Control relay closes to allow pulses from the Score Motor
4A and 4D switches to pass directly to the Add Bonus Unit solenoid. The
4A switch sends groups of five pulses from the Score Motor to the Add
Bonus solenoid - 5 pulses per 1/3 Score Motor turn. These same "groups
of 5" kinds of pulses are used to reset the score reels for example.
The 4D motor switch sends a single, longer pulse to the Add Bonus unit before the 5 pulses from the 4A switch for a total of 6 pulses per Score Motor cycle. The pulse durations and locations are illustrated on the
Motor Sequence Chart on the schematic. So the first timing variable in counting the bonus is 1 long pulse vs 5 shorter pulses per Score Motor cycle.
The Bonus Unit takes a step each time a pulse is received and if the associated drop target is down a different pulse is sent to the 1000
point relay to add points. The Bonus Unit takes 15 steps total, one
step per target, but points are added only where targets are down adding another variable into the bonus count timing. So if only the first and
last targets are down for example you'll get 2000 points but they'll be scored at the very beginning and very end of the 15 pulses.
Counting a Double Bonus is a little more complicated and adds a third
timing variable. Since 2000 points need to be added per target the
Bonus Unit needs to slow down to allow two pulses to be sent to the 1000 point relay for each Bonus Unit position. In this case a normally
closed switch on the K/Double Bonus relay opens to block the 5 pulses
from the 4A motor switch from getting to the Bonus Unit solenoid. In
this case the 4A pulses are forced through motor switches 2D and 3B
which allow only two of the 5 pulses from the 4A switch to get through
to the Bonus Unit. In this scenario the Bonus Unit takes only 3 steps
per Score Motor cycle instead of the 6 steps per cycle it takes during a normal bonus count. This allows the 1000 point relay to receive two
pulses per Bonus Unit step instead of just one, which doubles the total.
/Mark
Ok, as part of the bonus scanning circuit, the switch blades that are on the top level (D) of the motor get a heavy workout, and on three separate Solar City/Target Alpha games I've worked on in the past (including my game too), one or two of the three switch blades had broken perfectly, to a point that you'd never be able to eyeball it unless you knew exactly how each of blades are shaped. There is a long-winded but great explanation along with photos of the switch blades you need to confirm on Pinside. If it boils down to broken blades, those exact blades can be ordered from Pinball Resource.Thanks for the suggestion.. I've gone through the score motor, score relays, and anything else I can visually see, clean and adjust. Every target scores properly, it just takes a long time. Some spots it will pulse 2x, but I never get the 5 pulses or even 3 pulses. I went through the 2nd level stack and everything looks good and I don't see any arcing when the motor is running. I've tried on 3 ball and 5 ball with no difference. The top 4D switch does have some arcing once in awhile on the pads, but not every time. I'll search on Pinside for the thread. I think I am going to post there as well just so I can put up a video as well. Being that the scoring is working properly, I'm almost wondering if what I've got is normal.
Thanks for the suggestion.. I've gone through the score motor, score relays, and anything else I can visually see, clean and adjust. Every target scores properly, it just takes a long time. Some spots it will pulse 2x, but I never get the 5 pulses or even 3 pulses. I went through the 2nd level stack and everything looks good and I don't see any arcing when the motor is running. I've tried on 3 ball and 5 ball with no difference. The top 4D switch does have some arcing once in awhile on the pads, but not every time. I'll search on Pinside for the thread. I think I am going to post there as well just so I can put up a video as well. Being that the scoring is working properly, I'm almost wondering if what I've got is normal.
On 4/18/21 7:09 AM, Bubba wrote:Thanks Mark.. I'm going to play with it today and try to narrow it down. I haven't counted rotations vs pulses yet. I don't have consistent pulses vs steps though. I also don't always drop the same targets while I'm playing with it. Maybe I'll work with the 5 bank first and see if I can find some consistency. I did search a bit on Pinside and found a few good threads about the issue that have already been hashed out pretty good. I don't think my issue is any different than a few of these threads. I'm going to have a good look at the 4D switch lever as well.
Thanks for the suggestion.. I've gone through the score motor, score relays, and anything else I can visually see, clean and adjust. Every target scores properly, it just takes a long time. Some spots it will pulse 2x, but I never get the 5 pulses or even 3 pulses. I went through the 2nd level stack and everything looks good and I don't see any arcing when the motor is running. I've tried on 3 ball and 5 ball with no difference. The top 4D switch does have some arcing once in awhile on the pads, but not every time. I'll search on Pinside for the thread. I think I am going to post there as well just so I can put up a video as well. Being that the scoring is working properly, I'm almost wondering if what I've got is normal.
Given that it's a long sequence even when it's working it would help to characterize the behavior a little more. For example on a single bonus,
how many motor cycles (1/3 turn) does it take to add the bonus? At 6
pulses per cycle the motor would need to go through 3 cycles or one
complete turn. Is it consistent if the same target (or targets) is down
or does it vary? When does it give you three quick pulses? Etc...
On Sunday, April 18, 2021 at 11:02:08 AM UTC-4, Mark wrote:OK.. I think Don O hit the nail on the head.. Im on the machine now. I get 6 motor full revolutions to count the bonus. This is with all 5 drop targets down. It scores properly. I'm looking at my score motor comparing some of the pics I found on one thread about score motor switches and levers. I don't have any lever on my 2D stack. Its just a flat blade of the switch that touches the rod as the motor goes around. Here is the thread I'm comparing it to. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-scan-bonus-unit-of-canada-dry-target-alpha-solar-city-#post-5903847 . First post has a bunch of pics showing the lever on 2D. Mine is definitely gone. Is it the only problem, I dunno yet, but I guess I'll be doing another PBR order.
On 4/18/21 7:09 AM, Bubba wrote:
Thanks for the suggestion.. I've gone through the score motor, score relays, and anything else I can visually see, clean and adjust. Every target scores properly, it just takes a long time. Some spots it will pulse 2x, but I never get the 5 pulses or even 3 pulses. I went through the 2nd level stack and everything looks good and I don't see any arcing when the motor is running. I've tried on 3 ball and 5 ball with no difference. The top 4D switch does have some arcing once in awhile on the pads, but not every time. I'll search on Pinside for the thread. I think I am going to post there as well just so I can put up a video as well. Being that the scoring is working properly, I'm almost wondering if what I've got is normal.
Given that it's a long sequence even when it's working it would help to characterize the behavior a little more. For example on a single bonus, how many motor cycles (1/3 turn) does it take to add the bonus? At 6 pulses per cycle the motor would need to go through 3 cycles or one complete turn. Is it consistent if the same target (or targets) is downThanks Mark.. I'm going to play with it today and try to narrow it down. I haven't counted rotations vs pulses yet. I don't have consistent pulses vs steps though. I also don't always drop the same targets while I'm playing with it. Maybe I'll work with the 5 bank first and see if I can find some consistency. I did search a bit on Pinside and found a few good threads about the issue that have already been hashed out pretty good. I don't think my issue is any different than a few of these threads. I'm going to have a good look at the 4D switch lever as well.
or does it vary? When does it give you three quick pulses? Etc...
On Sunday, April 18, 2021 at 12:26:13 PM UTC-4, Bubba wrote:Ok.. I got my replacement switch lever tonight and put it on. Ran the machine and same thing.. I was trying to watch relays as it was counting down. The G relay was pulsing the bonus stepper directly. I'm wondering if this wasn't rigged somewhere if they couldn't figure out the broken lever? Looking at the schematic, it looks like everything is going through the DX relay? My schematic is pretty bad. I should have ordered a new one. I don't know if a video link works but here is a video of the ball drain. https://photos.app.goo.gl/UJGvP21bRhpTFWFy5
On Sunday, April 18, 2021 at 11:02:08 AM UTC-4, Mark wrote:
On 4/18/21 7:09 AM, Bubba wrote:
Thanks for the suggestion.. I've gone through the score motor, score relays, and anything else I can visually see, clean and adjust. Every target scores properly, it just takes a long time. Some spots it will pulse 2x, but I never get the 5 pulses or even 3 pulses. I went through the 2nd level stack and everything looks good and I don't see any arcing when the motor is running. I've tried on 3 ball and 5 ball with no difference. The top 4D switch does have some arcing once in awhile on the pads, but not every time. I'll search on Pinside for the thread. I think I am going to post there as well just so I can put up a video as well. Being that the scoring is working properly, I'm almost wondering if what I've got is normal.
OK.. I think Don O hit the nail on the head.. Im on the machine now. I get 6 motor full revolutions to count the bonus. This is with all 5 drop targets down. It scores properly. I'm looking at my score motor comparing some of the pics I found on one thread about score motor switches and levers. I don't have any lever on my 2D stack. Its just a flat blade of the switch that touches the rod as the motor goes around. Here is the thread I'm comparing it to. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-scan-bonus-unit-of-canada-dry-target-alpha-solar-city-#post-5903847 . First post has a bunch of pics showing the lever on 2D. Mine is definitely gone. Is it the only problem, I dunno yet, but I guess I'll be doing another PBR order.Given that it's a long sequence even when it's working it would help to characterize the behavior a little more. For example on a single bonus, how many motor cycles (1/3 turn) does it take to add the bonus? At 6 pulses per cycle the motor would need to go through 3 cycles or one complete turn. Is it consistent if the same target (or targets) is down or does it vary? When does it give you three quick pulses? Etc...Thanks Mark.. I'm going to play with it today and try to narrow it down. I haven't counted rotations vs pulses yet. I don't have consistent pulses vs steps though. I also don't always drop the same targets while I'm playing with it. Maybe I'll work with the 5 bank first and see if I can find some consistency. I did search a bit on Pinside and found a few good threads about the issue that have already been hashed out pretty good. I don't think my issue is any different than a few of these threads. I'm going to have a good look at the 4D switch lever as well.
Project goal:
Disassemble and comment all classic Stern game roms
Reason:
To enable people to re-program on the native platform - no p3, no
arduinos, etc. Program in 6800 assembler just like the 70s guys did!
You can create new games from scratch as well, or conversion kits.
Rewrite rules the way you want
I have to be honest, motivation to disassemble code for games I don't
own is not very appealing. I do have it down to about 20 hours to disassemble a game and get in shape to re-compile - no real comments
other than broad descriptions. You can put in 100+ hours REALLY getting into the code and explaining what it does.
What am I looking for?
People who either know some form of assembly or are willing to learn - I will send you examples and documentation of the mpu200 language (it's a token interpreter - you can't just dump straight assembly with it - it > takes a while to manually create macros). If your interest lies in the
earlier mpu100 games, those are straight 6800 assembly.
Some of the games are in various states of commenting already - off the
top of my head, done thus far:
Stars
Wild Fyre/Dracula (same exact roms! Slightly different switches!)
Trident
Meteor
Galaxy
Seawitch
Flight 2000
Dragonfist
Star Gazer
Hot Hand
It's probably no surprise that the above games are games I eitherAnything ever come of this other than that rather informative post on
currently own or have owned in the past.
Interested? Let me know via email and I'll get some training materials together.
seymour.shabow@gmail.com
The G relay was pulsing the bonus stepper directly.
On 4/26/21 6:09 PM, Bubba wrote:
The G relay was pulsing the bonus stepper directly.The G relay is pulsing while the bonus is counting? I don't think it
should.
Once the Ball Return switch fires the G relay, it should hold itself on until the Bonus Unit 15th position switch opens. If your G relay isn't holding, either because its own lock in switch or the 15th position
switch isn't closing, I think you'd get the one Bonus Unit step per
Score Motor cycle you're seeing.
If the G relay doesn't hold then it will only fire while the ball is inDon O - I'll post a picture tonight when I get home. The switch blade I replaced was the one that was talked about on the few threads I saw on Pinside. Whether any of the other blades were changed previously or not I don't know.
the out hole and the Motor 1C switch is closed at the start of the Score Motor cycle. When the Motor 1C switch is holding the G relay closed
just a single Motor 4A pulse gets through the K and G relay switches in
the Add Bonus Unit circuit. The Motor 1C switch then opens which
relaxes the G relay and prevents the next four Motor 4A switches from reaching the Add Bonus Unit solenoid. So instead of 5 pulses per Score
Motor cycle you're only getting the first of the 5.
/Mark
On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 1:15:36 AM UTC-4, Mark wrote:
On 4/26/21 6:09 PM, Bubba wrote:
The G relay was pulsing the bonus stepper directly.The G relay is pulsing while the bonus is counting? I don't think it should.
Once the Ball Return switch fires the G relay, it should hold itself on until the Bonus Unit 15th position switch opens. If your G relay isn't holding, either because its own lock in switch or the 15th position
switch isn't closing, I think you'd get the one Bonus Unit step per
Score Motor cycle you're seeing.
I just put a snippet of the schematic here - https://photos.app.goo.gl/mchhh9mUQNQ714FY9If the G relay doesn't hold then it will only fire while the ball is in the out hole and the Motor 1C switch is closed at the start of the Score Motor cycle. When the Motor 1C switch is holding the G relay closed
just a single Motor 4A pulse gets through the K and G relay switches in the Add Bonus Unit circuit. The Motor 1C switch then opens which
relaxes the G relay and prevents the next four Motor 4A switches from reaching the Add Bonus Unit solenoid. So instead of 5 pulses per Score Motor cycle you're only getting the first of the 5.
/MarkDon O - I'll post a picture tonight when I get home. The switch blade I replaced was the one that was talked about on the few threads I saw on Pinside. Whether any of the other blades were changed previously or not I don't know.
Mark-- I didn't think the relay should pulse. One time I did hold in the G relay and it rapid fired the bonus. It didn't pulse or pause, it just sounded like a full auto machine gun. I'll look at the 15th pos switch again, but I've gone over it a few times with no difference. I think I went over the G relay contacts as well, but I'll go through that again tonight.
Anything ever come of this other than that rather informative post on
the other pinball forum?
It would be nice to see if there was a way to have Stern games all able
to set to Free Play for example...
John Robertson wrote:
There's already free play roms for all the classic stern games, but they aren't all switchable on/off.
Anything ever come of this other than that rather informative post on >> the other pinball forum?
It would be nice to see if there was a way to have Stern games all
able to set to Free Play for example...
Yes, it's still progressing slowly. There's at least one other person
that is doing free fall, and many of the other games are slowly
progressing by me, just not in released form yet. Mpu 100 games would
be the most incomplete.
Where are the free play images?
Thanks,
John :-#)#
John Robertson wrote:
Where are the free play images?
Thanks,
John :-#)#
I stuck them here for you https://sites.google.com/site/allentownpinball/galaxy-asm
The date stamp on the zip file was 2010 so these are really old. There
are other variants that others came up with, for instance I think all
the ones in the weebly board are a different flavor (although I could be wrong about that as well.... it has been 11 years since these were made)
On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 7:33:33 AM UTC-4, Bubba wrote:
On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 1:15:36 AM UTC-4, Mark wrote:
On 4/26/21 6:09 PM, Bubba wrote:
The G relay was pulsing the bonus stepper directly.The G relay is pulsing while the bonus is counting? I don't think it should.
Once the Ball Return switch fires the G relay, it should hold itself on until the Bonus Unit 15th position switch opens. If your G relay isn't holding, either because its own lock in switch or the 15th position switch isn't closing, I think you'd get the one Bonus Unit step per Score Motor cycle you're seeing.
OK.. I got it.. for reference Don O, here is a pic of the top of the score motor.. https://photos.app.goo.gl/HNRuhKVAr5xN3V5F6If the G relay doesn't hold then it will only fire while the ball is in the out hole and the Motor 1C switch is closed at the start of the Score Motor cycle. When the Motor 1C switch is holding the G relay closed
just a single Motor 4A pulse gets through the K and G relay switches in the Add Bonus Unit circuit. The Motor 1C switch then opens which
relaxes the G relay and prevents the next four Motor 4A switches from reaching the Add Bonus Unit solenoid. So instead of 5 pulses per Score Motor cycle you're only getting the first of the 5.
/MarkDon O - I'll post a picture tonight when I get home. The switch blade I replaced was the one that was talked about on the few threads I saw on Pinside. Whether any of the other blades were changed previously or not I don't know.
Mark-- I didn't think the relay should pulse. One time I did hold in the G relay and it rapid fired the bonus. It didn't pulse or pause, it just sounded like a full auto machine gun. I'll look at the 15th pos switch again, but I've gone over it a few times with no difference. I think I went over the G relay contacts as well, but I'll go through that again tonight.I just put a snippet of the schematic here - https://photos.app.goo.gl/mchhh9mUQNQ714FY9
It looks like G is fired by a M/B on the 15th position switch and then a M/B on the DX relay. The DX relay didn't move while I was watching the pulse.
However have you chatted with Dave Alverson about this project? He likes poking around assembly code when bored.
John Robertson wrote:
However have you chatted with Dave Alverson about this project? He likes poking around assembly code when bored.
Don't know him unless it's only by his handle!
On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 11:22:16 AM UTC-4, seymour-shabow
wrote:
John Robertson wrote:
However have you chatted with Dave Alverson about this project?Don't know him unless it's only by his handle!
He likes poking around assembly code when bored.
I might be able to help with disassembly and commenting code. If you
can point me to some more information, I'll be happy to take a look.
I'm about to try thinning my thick super-glue by adding some super thin super-glue. With any luck this will save a fairly big bottle of thick super-glue that's getting way too thick.
--did it work @rickca...@sportvision.com ?
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I'm looking for a NOS or reproduction turret cover for my 1958 Bally Super Bowler. Is anyone remaking these or does anyone have one that they are willing to sell?Did you ever find one? Asking because I need one also mine is cracked.
Thanks in advance!
On Wednesday, August 21, 2019 at 1:14:49 PM UTC-4, homega... wrote:No, I never found one. I heard that someone, somewhere had a mold to make it but I never heard who actually has it. :-( I'm in for one of anyone has it (or 2)!
I'm looking for a NOS or reproduction turret cover for my 1958 Bally Super Bowler. Is anyone remaking these or does anyone have one that they are willing to sell?
Thanks in advance!Did you ever find one? Asking because I need one also mine is cracked.
On Monday, June 14, 2021 at 10:07:09 AM UTC-4, pinballtom264 wrote:
On Wednesday, August 21, 2019 at 1:14:49 PM UTC-4, homega... wrote:No, I never found one. I heard that someone, somewhere had a mold to make it but I never heard who actually has it. :-( I'm in for one of anyone has it (or 2)!
I'm looking for a NOS or reproduction turret cover for my 1958 Bally Super Bowler. Is anyone remaking these or does anyone have one that they are willing to sell?Did you ever find one? Asking because I need one also mine is cracked.
Thanks in advance!
On 2021/06/14 5:07 p.m., homega...@gmail.com wrote:John do you have any tips for replacing the coils in the pin reset bank? I have to change a couple and it looks to be a complete pain in the butt.
On Monday, June 14, 2021 at 10:07:09 AM UTC-4, pinballtom264 wrote:
On Wednesday, August 21, 2019 at 1:14:49 PM UTC-4, homega... wrote:No, I never found one. I heard that someone, somewhere had a mold to make it but I never heard who actually has it. :-( I'm in for one of anyone has it (or 2)!
I'm looking for a NOS or reproduction turret cover for my 1958 Bally Super Bowler. Is anyone remaking these or does anyone have one that they are willing to sell?Did you ever find one? Asking because I need one also mine is cracked.
Thanks in advance!
If you can patch up the old one, and make a mold using Smooth-On
products (they have many helpful videos) you should be able to cast replacements. I've done several and while they are a bit time consuming
the results can be quite good.
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
I'm looking for a NOS or reproduction turret cover for my 1958 Bally Super Bowler. Is anyone remaking these or does anyone have one that they are willing to sell?I have a mold that was used to make the reproduction covers that I purchased from someone here years ago. I never figured out what to do with it and no longer have the game. I'd be willing to part with it if someone is interested.
Thanks in advance!
On Wednesday, August 21, 2019 at 1:14:49 PM UTC-4, homega...@gmail.com wrote:
I'm looking for a NOS or reproduction turret cover for my 1958 Bally Super Bowler. Is anyone remaking these or does anyone have one that they are willing to sell?I have a mold that was used to make the reproduction covers that I purchased from someone here years ago. I never figured out what to do with it and no longer have the game. I'd be willing to part with it if someone is interested.
Thanks in advance!
acetone will NOT thin super-glue! In fact, quite the opposite… it “gels” it, and what results might be a good adhesive/gap sealer; but it might be worthless - I don’t know, I threw it away as a failed experiment.Acetone will thin superglue. just make sure it is an unopened bottle and 100% pure. If there is any moisture present it will gel the superglue.
I made these springs with encouragement of others that needed them for there baseball games. All sold and I I will not need to make more. If others want some springs Former's will make small batches of 5 or so but the cost will be in the range of $100.
I have the sketch for this one and am happy to send to you gratis. I will need to update with final supplier changes in wire thickness If I recall.
Regards Steveintexas.
On 2018/08/09 12:56 PM, homebrood wrote:Hey John
On Monday, August 6, 2018 at 12:39:02 PM UTC-5, Jimmi...@comcast.net wrote:
On Thursday, November 4, 2010 at 11:03:30 AM UTC-7, jdv wrote:
I need help with a 1978 Midway Rotation VIII pinball machine. When I
plug it in all that happens is the playfield lights come on and that
is it. Does anyone have any experience with one of these? Any and all >>> help will be much appreciated.
Thanks
Josh
Josh...this maybe obvious...but if you do not have the ball in the slot the machine will not function. There are also alot of tests you can run to determine the problem. (See the inside panel with the key pad) I have had a Rotation 8 since it was brand new..it can develop problems alot. In fact when this machine was manufactured...it was not popular because of all the repair needed to keep it running at an establishment.
This thread is 8 years old but maybe it's not too late!
Rotation 8 is not dead, I hope to be able to do a replacement MPU board relatively soon (year or less). My PCB designer has a real job (and
family) and not much time to devote to this sort of thing...
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
On Thursday, 9 August 2018 at 22:39:21 UTC+2, John Robertson wrote:
On 2018/08/09 12:56 PM, homebrood wrote:Hey John
On Monday, August 6, 2018 at 12:39:02 PM UTC-5, Jimmi...@comcast.net wrote: >>>> On Thursday, November 4, 2010 at 11:03:30 AM UTC-7, jdv wrote:Rotation 8 is not dead, I hope to be able to do a replacement MPU board
I need help with a 1978 Midway Rotation VIII pinball machine. When I >>>>> plug it in all that happens is the playfield lights come on and that >>>>> is it. Does anyone have any experience with one of these? Any and all >>>>> help will be much appreciated.
Thanks
Josh
Josh...this maybe obvious...but if you do not have the ball in the slot the machine will not function. There are also alot of tests you can run to determine the problem. (See the inside panel with the key pad) I have had a Rotation 8 since it was brand new..it can develop problems alot. In fact when this machine was manufactured...it was not popular because of all the repair needed to keep it running at an establishment.
This thread is 8 years old but maybe it's not too late!
relatively soon (year or less). My PCB designer has a real job (and
family) and not much time to devote to this sort of thing...
John :-#)#
Did your PCB designer finish the design?
I have two Rotations VIII but unfortunately no working PCB's ..
Boyan
On 2019/07/10 6:55 p.m., kelly...@gmail.com wrote:
I was just reading through this thread And have taken a sudden interest in the Metal Typer machines after discovering one at a local historical museum and becoming enamored with it.
There's a couple unit currently for sale on ebay, but it seems when they've come up in the past few years they were significantly less than the current offerings.
Can anybody share a general price range of what serviceable machines go for in private sales and whether there are any available?
While I know a reasonable amount about the Metal Typer mechanics, I do
not know what they sell for these days. I have two machines that I
bought many years ago, neither of which is for sale...
Why not ask Crow River? They sell parts and machines - at least you
would know the game is in good condition if you got it from them.
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Why was the wheelbarrow invented? To teach Niggers to walk on their
hind legs.
What has 200 balls and fucks a nigger? A shotgun.
Whats the first thing taught in a Harlem driving school? How to
unlock a car with a coat hanger.
How do you say Rodney King in Spanish? Piata.
How many cops does it take to throw a nigger down a flight of stairs?
None, he fell down them.
Whats green and pink and purple and orange? A nigger dressed for
church.
Whats the New York State motto? Eat, Drink and be Merry, for tomorrow
you may be killed by a nigger in Central park.
What do you say to a nigger in a three-piece suit? Will the defendant
please rise.
How is transportation being improved in Harlem? Theyre planting the
trees closer together.
Why do niggers call white people honkies? Thats the last noise they
hear before the white people run them over.
Everyone loves a good nigger joke.
Looking for HUO Houdini.
badbilly27 wrote:--- Synchronet 3.19a-Win32 NewsLink 1.113
On Friday, August 24, 2018 at 12:57:53 PM UTC-5, Jacked Up Pinball! wrote:
Found one at $6500 NIB and $6k make offer. Clearly is a tough market if you're selling.
Mine's up for sale for $6300 or trade. Live 10 minutes from Expo.
Reason you are selling? Too had to play, shots too tight,
just doesn't do anything for you with glowing lights and
the image of you being Houdini with your hands shackled?
Pray Tell, do tell us what is wrong with the game art or
play, or both, and why are you getting rid of it?
--
The Frankster, a playfield prankster
Once upon my crank her ballpark shrank.
http://PinWiki.com, Prep-H 4 pinballers.
CARGPB #42 (Free to join, sign up now!)
Dangling Team-EM Member (debauchery a-go-go)
Rule #1 of RGP, there are no rules or rulers.
On Sunday, August 19, 2018 at 1:52:52 AM UTC+5:30, Jacked Up Pinball! wrote:
Looking for HUO Houdini.
hi hows yWho's y?
On Thursday, July 11, 2019 at 2:20:13 AM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:--- Synchronet 3.19a-Win32 NewsLink 1.113
On 2019/07/10 6:55 p.m., kelly...@gmail.com wrote:
I was just reading through this thread And have taken a sudden interest in the Metal Typer machines after discovering one at a local historical museum and becoming enamored with it.
There's a couple unit currently for sale on ebay, but it seems when they've come up in the past few years they were significantly less than the current offerings.
Can anybody share a general price range of what serviceable machines go for in private sales and whether there are any available?
While I know a reasonable amount about the Metal Typer mechanics, I do
not know what they sell for these days. I have two machines that I
bought many years ago, neither of which is for sale...
Why not ask Crow River? They sell parts and machines - at least you
would know the game is in good condition if you got it from them.
John :-#)#
--I picked up a Metal Typer Machine today. Does anyone know where I can get Tokens for it?
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Thanks
Looking to purchase if anyone has a working one available.
On 2022/08/13 7:58 a.m., Brian Herrmann wrote:--- Synchronet 3.19a-Win32 NewsLink 1.113
Looking to purchase if anyone has a working one available.Tokens are a pain at the moment...it appears that the company that made
them is no longer producing them.
John :-#(#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Does anyone know how much they weigh. I need to know the weight of the top part and the weight of the heavy metal bottom part. Also do you know the height of pieces when
separated. Thank you so much for any help.
Hi - i need a route alpha 250 who can help?Hi, I have mars route alpha 250. I dont need it.
I wonna pay Work Shop Modul software or key for STS for cf690. Please help. Waiting offera on la4...@gmail.com
Thanks all
On Friday, August 20, 2021 at 12:35:18 AM UTC-4, Kenneth Vaughan wrote:I can attest to the fact that acetone does thin super-glue. I had a container of super-glue gel that was about 2 years old. I have applied that to fill the larger cracks in the timber I used for turning. I was about to throw that away as the gel had become too thick for effective application. I was encouraged to add acetone to the very thick super-glue gel after reading KJMain's response. Needless to say, I was very pleasantly surprised that the consistency of the super-glue thinned out sufficiently to flow into the timber cracks and shakes. For me, the acetone has restored the super-glue gel to the extent that I could use it as effectively as if it was a new supply.
acetone will NOT thin super-glue! In fact, quite the opposite… it “gels” it, and what results might be a good adhesive/gap sealer; but it might be worthless - I don’t know, I threw it away as a failed experiment.Acetone will thin superglue. just make sure it is an unopened bottle and 100% pure. If there is any moisture present it will gel the superglue.
Dne středa 13. března 2019 v 0:39:53 UTC+1 uživatel la4...@gmail.com napsal:Hello Tomáš Husák,
Hi - i need a route alpha 250 who can help?Hi, I have mars route alpha 250. I dont need it.
I wonna pay Work Shop Modul software or key for STS for cf690. Please help.
Waiting offera on la4...@gmail.com
Thanks all
I can get the blanks. First I need a machine. If you know where to find one please let me know.--- Synchronet 3.19a-Win32 NewsLink 1.113
Brian Herrmann— Are you still in the market for a machine? I have one in North Carolina. I'm open to selling it.Christopher I sent you an email.
Thanks, Christopher
On Sunday, August 14, 2022 at 1:18:27 AM UTC-4, Brian Herrmann wrote:
I can get the blanks. First I need a machine. If you know where to find one please let me know.
On 2022/09/19 3:39 p.m., Brian Herrmann wrote:John, just saw your reply. Thank you so much for the pdf. I didn't have it. --- Synchronet 3.19a-Win32 NewsLink 1.113
Does anyone know how much they weigh. I need to know the weight of the top part and the weight of the heavy metal bottom part. Also do you know the height of pieces whenAre you talking about the Metal Typer machine as separate from the Metal Typer Stand? There are a number of possible stands. One stand/base is
separated. Thank you so much for any help.
metal and the others are wood.
I may have a flyer at my shop with that info. I've emailed you the
service manual for these machines in the meantime.
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Looks like I'm late to the party! Is there anyone out there reading this who still has this, and would be willing to seed? I'm particularly interested in the Terminator 2 video. Unless the quality is no different than the version on Youtube...I'm after T2 as well, would actually love to get the source VHS and convert it with some high quality equipment I have. Can't find it on eBay.
Thanks!
On Sunday, July 26, 2009 at 3:58:27 AM UTC-5, Speedy-G wrote:
Hi All,
For your viewing pleasure I posted the 1st DVD of the Pinball
Promotion Video Collection:
http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/5023760
Listing:
Pinball promotion video's of the following machines:
* The Addams Family
* Attack from Mars
* Black Rose
* Cirqus Voltaire
* Corvette
* Creature from the Black Lagoon
* Demolition Man
* Dirty Harry
* Dr. Who
* Bram Stokers Dracula
* Fish Tales
* Flintstones
* The Getaway High Speed II
* Giligans Island
When enough interest I will post the following two as well:
Pinball Promotion DVD #2
* Hurricane
* Indiana Jones
* Indianapolis 500
* Jackbot
* Johnny Mnemonic
* Judge Dredd
* Medieval Madness
* NBA Fastbreak
* No Fear
* No Good Gofers
* Party Zone
* Popeye
* Revenge from Mars
* Road Show
* Safecracker
Pinball Promotion DVD #3
* Scared Stiff
* The Shadow
* Star Wars episode 1
* Terminator 2
* Theatre of magic
* Twilight Zone
* Whitewater
* World Cup soccer
Regards,
(-Speedy-G-)
I can get the blanks. First I need a machine. If you know where to find one please let me know.--- Synchronet 3.19a-Win32 NewsLink 1.113
On Saturday, August 13, 2022 at 2:40:10 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:
On 2022/08/13 7:58 a.m., Brian Herrmann wrote:
Looking to purchase if anyone has a working one available.Tokens are a pain at the moment...it appears that the company that made them is no longer producing them.
John :-#(#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
do you have any you are selling?I DO HAVE THREE FOR SALE EMAIL ME FOR PICTURES
--- Synchronet 3.19a-Win32 NewsLink 1.113I'm about to try thinning my thick super-glue by adding some super thin super-glue. With any luck this will save a fairly big bottle of thick super-glue that's getting way too thick.Thinning thick super glue or I have to assume you are referring to the family of glues under Cyanoacrylates is wasteful actually REDUCES bond strength.
"Mixing and matching" glues is also a bad idea because of the changes in chemicals that are used in different types of glues, which can cause discoloration.
Many times thick glue means the glue has aged or simply cheap.
Go buy a new bottle of Loctite 20G SG Professional and throw the old bottle out.
Don't be cheap, or you get cheap results.
A $6 bottle of loctite even with a lot of repairs lasts months.
For those that don't peruse Pinside, just making a repro part announcement. M&M Creations began making repro MRS' in mid-2019 - but only announced on the Pinside RFM forum (they are handmade and didn't want to get overwhelmed with orders). We've been branching out more to other Pinside clubs that utilize the formerly unobtanium switch....the MRS stands for Magnetic Reed Switch - they are also found in SC, CV, NBAFB, NGG, SWEP1 and CC ...they went unobtanium half a dozen years ago or so - so my partner and I at M&M Creations decided to remake them. Our MRS is plug/play - it is lighter, thinner and more sensitive than the original MRS (which we've found is key when playfields are restored). MRS' are $25/switch - same as they were about 6 years ago when they went poof!Are you still making them? I am trying to find a very reliable Star Rollover switch for a homebrew project. I sent you a message earlier and hope it makes bits way to you.
Further, we designed an MRS mod for CFTBL to be placed on the whirlpool to garner more revolutions instead of the Cherry switch getting whacked by the ball. If interested, simply gmail or PM via Pinside if you like...
Matt & Dan
We sure are Mike - got your email and replied....
Matt
M&M Creations
"We Don't Touch Your Balls...."
On 2023/02/25 7:35 a.m., Sonic wrote:Hey John - we don't have a website. We tend to design reed switches for problem areas where there are design problems and poor ball detection. So the switches can be custom for certain situations with different ball sensitivity. We do have a some standard stuff for ramp bowls, like Creature, Diner, and the slot rollovers are fairly universal but we still have to look after mounting compatibility and sometimes interference from other pinball mechs like magnets, etc. We do show what some of our stuff looks like and what applications we have worked on this pinside post:
We sure are Mike - got your email and replied....
MattHi Matt,
M&M Creations
"We Don't Touch Your Balls...."
How about a link to your product(s)?
John :-#)#
Em domingo, 19 de janeiro de 2020 07:41:38 UTC-3, frg escreveu:Hi, does anyone has a new link to download the dile? The one on the group is broken. Can someone help please?
bandas...@gmail.com wrote:
Em sexta-feira, 17 de janeiro de 2020 21:46:57 UTC-3, pinworks escreveu:
On Wednesday, February 15, 2017 at 5:36:33 PM UTC-5, wozzer wrote:
HI,
Has anyone got, or can program the U1 PIC for the magnet board on a Sega Twister? I'm in the UK, have seen the one on Ebay but thought would see if anyone can help on here?
Thanks
I use a cheap little tl866cs. Yes, nothing to brag about. It does not work well with the older 2716 and 2732 chips. But it is cheap and those two chips are in its list of supported parts. I just checked.
pinworks
thanks for answer my friend, i have the tl866a, i record the image in pic 16c56 and nothing happens, i heard something about changing the oscillation. but I haven't figured it out yet
You either need a 16C56-HS or a 16C56A 20 MHz. With the A you need to set the
oscillator to High Speed. IF not A and RC or XT type you are out of luck. Won't work. WDT enable for both.
FRGwow thanks, im gonna try and come back here to tell if works,
thanks a lot guys
pinball forever
Em domingo, 19 de janeiro de 2020 07:41:38 UTC-3, frg escreveu:Does anyone has a new link to download the file?
bandas...@gmail.com wrote:
Em sexta-feira, 17 de janeiro de 2020 21:46:57 UTC-3, pinworks escreveu:
On Wednesday, February 15, 2017 at 5:36:33 PM UTC-5, wozzer wrote:
HI,
Has anyone got, or can program the U1 PIC for the magnet board on a Sega Twister? I'm in the UK, have seen the one on Ebay but thought would see if anyone can help on here?
Thanks
I use a cheap little tl866cs. Yes, nothing to brag about. It does not work well with the older 2716 and 2732 chips. But it is cheap and those two chips are in its list of supported parts. I just checked.
pinworks
thanks for answer my friend, i have the tl866a, i record the image in pic 16c56 and nothing happens, i heard something about changing the oscillation. but I haven't figured it out yet
You either need a 16C56-HS or a 16C56A 20 MHz. With the A you need to set the
oscillator to High Speed. IF not A and RC or XT type you are out of luck. Won't work. WDT enable for both.
FRGwow thanks, im gonna try and come back here to tell if works,
thanks a lot guys
pinball forever
- Buy Arcade1up Machines Online
I have been working on three ball multiball. I am able to get it both ways, though I find doing it by getting three balls in the lock. I am wondering what others familiar with this fun game think. Thanks!I find it safest to lock two balls and then use the upmost right spot target to start multiball. This gives you a head start on scoring in the upper part of the playfield while the other two balls are popping out (and might mitigate early ball collisions).
It's always a good idea to visit the official Craigslist website or consult their help documentation for the most up-to-date information on search options and features. https://www.press.in.th/Title: Total Classified Canada - Your Premier Online Classifieds Platform Description:
On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 8:35:57 PM UTC-4, ung...@mail.com wrote:After a years long break from this site I am checking back for anything new on this.
On Sunday, September 4, 2016 at 9:23:08 AM UTC-4, Mike Berger wrote:
I know the person who helped with selling the collection. He reads these posts, and I am sure he will contact you if he is comfortable with it.
Mike
For some reason Vic's reply to my post 19 months ago went undiscovered until I ran across it by accident while doing an internet search last night. I don't know much about these Google groups.
I don't know how that happened. I am sure I looked for replies for more than a few days as the dates on them seem to say they took to be made.
I am not now sure if the same thing isn't happening to my replies now to Vic. For all I know they too are lost in cyberspace. Just in case that is happening I decided to send this to you in the hopes you will pass it on to Vic just in case that is happening in the hopes messages get adequately through whatever barrier exists.
Thanks,I sold the Dave Christiansen Gottlieb collecton.
Henry Schwartzman
On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 8:35:57 PM UTC-4, ung...@mail.com wrote:At the risk of redundancy(I see no evidence of message i thought i just posted) After years away from this site, checking back in case any news about this that did not exist last time i visited this site.
On Sunday, September 4, 2016 at 9:23:08 AM UTC-4, Mike Berger wrote:
I know the person who helped with selling the collection. He reads these posts, and I am sure he will contact you if he is comfortable with it.
Mike
For some reason Vic's reply to my post 19 months ago went undiscovered until I ran across it by accident while doing an internet search last night. I don't know much about these Google groups.
I don't know how that happened. I am sure I looked for replies for more than a few days as the dates on them seem to say they took to be made.
I am not now sure if the same thing isn't happening to my replies now to Vic. For all I know they too are lost in cyberspace. Just in case that is happening I decided to send this to you in the hopes you will pass it on to Vic just in case that is happening in the hopes messages get adequately through whatever barrier exists.
Thanks,I sold the Dave Christiansen Gottlieb collecton.
Henry Schwartzman
On Sunday, February 10, 2019 at 5:46:11 PM UTC-2, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
On 2/10/19 12:14 PM, Jose Carlos Lucas wrote:
On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 11:59:36 AM UTC-2, LexingtonVAPin wrote:
On 1/24/19 10:05 PM, Jose Carlos Lucas wrote:
Em quinta-feira, 11 de janeiro de 2018 04:01:55 UTC-2, DomaineR escreveu:
On Tuesday, January 9, 2018 at 12:23:17 PM UTC-8, Jose Carlos Lucas wrote:
Hello,
I have MM and had a problem with DMD, not displaying anything. HV section of the WPC-95 A/V board was rebuild and I have all tensions ok on the DMD, -116V; -104V; +5V; +12V and +65V all good. The DMD was tested on another machine and works without any problem. The machine starts the game, I can hear the sound and play normally but nothing is showing on display. Anyone have some tips? If need any more information, just let me know.
Thanks.
I would check your voltages on the dmd board and down a trace away from the pins. My mid 90's pins are suddenly getting all sorts of cold solder joints and in places not directly 'in the line of fire'. While it wasn't surprising in the saucer board on an AFM, it was on some driver boards components (non connector) on a TOM
Also, not a bad idea to see if you can borrow a dmd from another machine. But that is often easier said than found.
Hello, I tested the display on other machine and works fine. Tested other DMD on the affected machine, but still no video. The only thing that happens is when the machine powered off the display show some lines than off.
Thanks.
Did you try switching the ribbon cables with another pin? The ribbon
cables involved are those going from the CPU to the DMD controller, and >> the ribbon cable from the DMD controller to the DMD itself.
Also be certain that the ribbon cables are plugged in properly. I find >> that it is frustratingly easy to get a ribbon cable off by an entire
row. And I had a pin where someone had substituted a non-standard
ribbon cable that had more positions than the correct one, and I was off
by a column.
It would be nice if you had another WPC95 around where you could switch >> out boards to troubleshoot.
--
http://orcalcoast.com/
Tested on other machine and A/V board and cables are 100%. The problem is on CPU board, already replace the U2 74LS244N, but still no video.
Thanks.
I'm having a similar problem on my Medieval Madness. Did you ever find what the problem on the CPU was?Just to clarify, you tested the A/V board and all ribbon cables onI tested the CPU and A/V board on another working machine. The tests were, with a know good CPU board my cables, my A/V board, and DMD, working 100%. With my CPU board no video on DMD, with my or other DMD also tested with another A/V, still no video.
another pin and they all work? Or, conversely, you switched the CPU
into a working machine and still no DMD?
Thanks.
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